Colonel Saab ∙ A Journey to India in the Heart of Trafalgar Square

You might think Trafalgar Square is all pigeons, tourists taking photos with Nelson’s Column, and the faint smell of street food—but then you walk into Colonel Saab and it’s like someone hit the reset button on London.

Two floors of softly grand interiors greet you: a bar that gleams like it’s been polished for Instagram, a lounge that invites lingering, and a dining room that catches every ray of sunlight from chandeliers shipped all the way from Firozabad.

A mezzanine offers a slightly elevated view of the room, while three private dining rooms are discreetly tucked away if you want to feel very important—or just very private. You don’t notice the food straight away; it’s the air. Carefully chosen fragrances weave through the space, making it feel like you’ve been whisked somewhere far, fragrant, and completely unlike Trafalgar Square.

The décor is a careful, joyful chaos of India. Tanjore panels from the 16th century, temple doors from Gujarat and Nepal, Warli paintings, centuries-old Phulkari embroidery, Bakhtiari rugs, and even the wedding almirah of Roop Partap Choudhary’s grandparents make up a collection that could feel overwhelming, except it’s been arranged with an elegance that makes it feel intimate, like someone is showing you their most treasured memories.

We chose the cocktails first because, well, we like gin. The Cucumber Collin is bright, crisp, and very easy to sip, cucumber, celery, and gin doing all the heavy lifting. The Lavender Gimlet is floral, fresh, and balanced so precisely that it’s almost too easy to drink a second one. Then we moved on to the dishes.

Starters arrive and the show begins. Hummus, Beetroot & Orange Salad is fresh and lively, beetroot and orange segments playing off roasted pine seeds, chickpea hummus, salad leaves, and crisp khakhra crackers. Up next is Bhatti ka Murgh—succulent chicken with a black spice crust, served with homemade kasundi, gem lettuce, and parmesan. Comforting, indulgent, and effortlessly stylish.

Mains are equally considered. Paneer-E-Pukhtan, pickled, spiced, grilled cottage cheese in Shahi pumpkin and tomato sauce with butter-poached vegetables and pumpkin seeds, is gentle, luxurious, and quietly clever. Old Delhi’s Famous Lamb Curry, tender lamb slow-cooked in Sardar Ji meat wale style, is rich, aromatic, and unashamedly full of character.

Desserts arrive like a soft, satisfying little treat. The Pineapple Jalebi is sweet, crisp, and impressive, with rabri Chantilly and pistachio kulfi that melt in your mouth. The vegan Almond Rice Pudding, dotted with rhubarb and raspberry compote and a scatter of pistachio crumble, is gentle, comforting, and exactly the sort of sweet that makes you stop mid-chew and think, “Yes, this is exactly why I came here.”

Colonel Saab is clever in a way that most restaurants aspire to but rarely achieve. It somehow makes you forget the city entirely, transporting you to India with every aroma, every flavour, every carefully chosen detail. By the time you leave, the streets feel the same—but you don’t. You feel lighter, quietly satisfied, and already thinking about your next visit. Go hungry, go curious, and trust us—you’ll want to tell everyone you’ve found London’s most unexpectedly brilliant restaurant.

Book your table at www.colonsaab.com

Words / Lucas Pontidas, Managing Editor, PIBE